All aboard the Bicol Express!
Join us on a scenic ride through Bicol's heartland with the first stop in Camarines Sur and a side trip to Camarines Norte.
The Philippines boasts a myriad of captivating destinations, each with its unique charm. Among these, the Bicol Region, nestled in southeastern Luzon, stands out as a land of fiery volcanoes, pristine beaches, and a culinary scene that will set your taste buds on fire (quite literally!).
If you go for the sights and adventure, then you’ll stay for the food! Bicolanos are renowned for their love of "sili" (chili) and "gata" (coconut milk), ingredients that form the backbone of iconic dishes like "Bicol Express" (a stew made from chilis, coconut milk, shrimp paste and many other tasty ingredients), "pinangat" (fish and tomato stew in a soured broth) and Matt’s favourite dish of “Laing” (taro leaves with meat cooked in coconut milk and chilis).
Getting to Bicol by road from Manila is an epic journey, a true test of resolve before you're fully immersed in its wonders. It’s a mere 300-400 kilometers, but having to traverse the Sierra Madre mountain range turns it into a 10-12 hour odyssey. Couple that with busses that only have one temperature setting - freezing - then you may be wiser to choose to fly into the airports of Legazpi or Naga City (Pili). If flying into Pili, you may just get greeted with some majorettes if you are VIP enough.
Once there, getting around is an experience itself. While vans and buses connect major towns, embrace the tricycle for local flavor. For island hopping, local boats are readily available, offering a glimpse into Bicolano maritime life. Just head to a port and ask around who has an available boat and you’ll soon be on the water.
The Bicol region is made up of five provinces. We have still not covered all there is to see in each province, but what we have seen in a few of the provinces makes up for more than enough words to fill several posts.
In this post we’ll start by diving into Camarines Sur (plus a quick detour into Camarines Norte) and in a follow on post we’ll move southwards into Albay and eventually to Sorsogon.
Camarines Sur: The Thrill-Seeker's Playground
Camarines Sur, or CamSur, is often the first stop for Bicol adventurers, blending urban vibrancy with natural wonders. Naga City, the heart of CamSur, and Lyssa’s home town, is a bustling hub with universities, shopping centers, and a lively food scene. Explore its historic churches and immerse yourself in local culture. You can use Naga as a good base to explore the rest of the region, with most other points being accessible within a couple of hours ride.
For adrenaline junkies, the CamSur Watersports Complex (CWC) is a must-visit. This world-class facility offers wakeboarding and waterskiing, attracting enthusiasts globally for an exhilarating experience. No need to book, just turn up, grab some tables with friends, get the picnic out and watch the novices (such as us) plunge head first into the refreshing waters! You can also stay in one of their cottages if you can’t get enough of the water.
For those craving a challenge, trekking in Mount Isarog (overlooking the CWC, above) offers a rewarding experience. This dormant volcano is a biodiversity hotspot, with great hiking and waterfalls and if you have the time, the panoramic views from the summit are well worth the effort (but do take a guide!).
After all this strenuous activity your body will be looking for a bit of TLC, so head to the Panicuason Hot Springs Resort to melt away your aches and pains. Different pools will take you from a refreshing 25 degrees (C) all the way to 39 degrees (C); it may seem strange to be in hot springs in such a climate, but it does work wonders for a tired body!
There is, however, no hiding place from adventure, not even in the relaxing embrace of hot springs. As here you can also try ‘Sky cycling’. Living in the Netherlands we had thought we had seen almost everything you could do on a bike but cycling 10 metres up in the air over a running river is a new one, even for us!
Heading out a bit farther from Naga City, venture northwards to discover the untouched beauty of the coastline of Siruma. This hidden gem boasts pristine beaches and crystal-clear waters, ideal for a tranquil escape to disconnect and soak in natural splendor. Previously, only those with boats could get here, but new roads are opening up the area each year, so even in such a densely populated country you can still ‘discover’ the undiscovered.
As you take the road northwards, plan to stop along the way at the various stunning viewpoints that look out over the San Miguel Bay…perhaps with a refreshing San Miguel beer in hand! As well as exploring the verdant countryside and all the tropical fruits to be had.
At the opposite end of the peninsula to Siruma, you’ll come to CamSur's most famous attraction, the Caramoan National Park. This remote area gained international fame as a "Survivor" filming location. Its dramatic limestone cliffs, hidden lagoons, and pristine white-sand beaches are simply breathtaking.
The best way to experience Caramoan is by boat hopping the islands, each offering unique charm. Don't forget to visit the iconic Our Lady of the Most Holy Rosary, Mother of Peace Grotto, perched atop a hill with stunning island views.
Moving eastwards from Naga, another beautiful island worth exploring is Atulayan Island, known for its calm waters and vibrant marine life, ideal for swimming and snorkeling. Just a short boat ride from the mainland to your own personal paradise! There is a simple resort on the island where you can get some shade, as well as some food and drink.
Now, it should be said that Filipinos are a little bit picky when it comes to beaches, having grown up with pure white, tropical shores they have high standards when it comes to how a beach should look and act…the British and the Dutch, on the other hand have grown up with the beaches on the North Sea, which is every bit as cold as it sounds! Therefore if we feel warm waters and see a palm fringed coastline then it is a tropical paradise.
With that side-note we come to our last destination in CamSur - the west coast beach areas of Pasacao. While it may not always meet the exacting standards of some Filipinos, for us Europeans it’s a wonderful escape from the city: hiring a bahay kubo (beach hut) with family and friends, taking a trip of exploration out to Daruanak island, taking in the perfect 360 degree views above the water and scuba diving into the world below.
However, for those beach purists out there, if you did not get your white sand fix in Caramoan, you can stray just over the border into Camarines Norte where you will get even closer to paradise with a trip to Calaguas Island, the Boracay of Bicol (but with far fewer people).
Around 2 hours sail from Paracale, this is the sort of island you wouldn’t mind being stranded on…and that could well happen, as sudden storms can sometimes roll in quickly and extend your stay in this paradise! There are a couple of resorts to stay at, but don’t count on electricity after bedtime and any modern conveniences such as air-conditioning!
With that, it sounds like the whistle is blowing for us to get back on the Bicol Express and head for our next destinations, the regions of Albay and Sorsogon. See you there!
Very well done!!! If I may say so myself. :)
Thank you!