Some many years ago, a few office colleagues and I were invited by a good friend for a weekend getaway to his hometown in Balayan, Batangas for its annual fiesta – the Parada ng Lechon (which literally means “Parade of Roasted Pigs”). We were told some background info on what it was all about so we had some idea on what to expect.
Still, we were surprised by the joyful chaos, outrageous creativity and sheer energy of it all. It was a festival that delighted in unexpected ways and offered a spectacle unlike any other: roasted pigs in different costumes, a town literally soaked in celebration, and a chaotic fun that stays with you long after the event.
A Thanksgiving Parade
What we didn’t know then - but came to appreciate later - was that this celebration is rooted in gratitude. The Parada ng Lechon began as a form of thanksgiving among the poor and working-class residents of Kanluran district, or the western part of Balayan.
It was said that during the Spanish and American occupations, those who were fortunate to receive some significant blessings during the year would offer their thanks and veneration to Balayan’s patron saint by parading a lechon through the town every June 24th, the feast day of St. John the Baptist.
As more people in the Kanluran district improved their lot in life and began to thrive, more lechons joined the parade. What began as a handful of grateful families became a grand, whole-town affair. Due to the growing popularity of the parade, the locals formally organized the Hermandad San Juan Bautista (Brotherhood of St. John the Baptist) in 1959 to oversee the celebration.
And that’s when the festival blossomed. The used to be single-day event evolved into a two-week celebration packed with basketball games, dance contests, concerts, pageants, races, and magic shows - all culminating in the June 24th Parada ng Lechon and the traditional water dousing, a practice common in cities and towns honoring St John the Baptist. This is the version of the festival that’s known and seen today.
Porcine Celebrities
Now let’s talk about the stars of the show: the lechons. These roasted pigs are nothing if not dressed to impress. We saw lechons wearing wedding gowns, superhero capes, military uniforms, and even fashion-forward barongs. Perched on bamboo poles and paraded like celebrities on top of tricycles, jeepneys, and flatbed trucks, these crispy icons wobbled through the streets to the undulating cheers and splashes of water from the crowd.
And speaking of water, it was coming from all corners, in endless supply. Buckets, hoses, water guns - you name it. Everyone was fair game and nobody was spared, not even the lechons themselves. The mood was rowdy, the atmosphere refreshing, and the water tradition perfectly fitting for a festival honoring St. John the Baptist.
Post-Parade Vibe
After the parade, the mood downshifts from wild to warm. The now slightly soggy but still crispy lechons, are taken home and shared with friends, family, and strangers alike. The town of Balayan becomes a one big open house. Each home turns into a place filled with laughter, interesting stories, and second helpings, wet floors notwithstanding.
And my friends and I basked in its revelry. Wearing our wet clothes, we danced and cheered with the locals and ate and drank our hearts out. Because when you’re in Balayan at this time of year, you don’t just watch. You get drenched, laugh, and join in.
It was a memorable moment and we were grateful to our host friend for the chance to experience the joy and excitement of that weekend. We went home with bags full of drenched clothes but we all agreed that it was absolutely worth the trip!
A Keepsake
I never got the chance to go back before migrating to the US but the memories of that weekend have lingered in my mind. Every time I am reminded of the feast of St. John the Baptist, my thoughts take me back to that Parada ng Lechon. It’s a testament to how blessings are best celebrated together. And I guess the people of Balayan just do it better.
So, if you happen to be in the Philippines in June – whether you’re a visitor from abroad or a local for that matter – and you want to see and experience something outrageous, delicious, and deeply Filipino, head to Balayan. The lechons are waiting and they’re dressed to party. Just make sure to come with an empty stomach, a sense of adventure, and a couple of changes of clothes, too.